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Is wet food good for your dog?
Most dogs light up at the sound of a tin opening. The aroma, the texture, the taste that coats the tongue. Wet dog food makes mealtimes exciting. But is it a smart daily choice or just an occasional treat? The answer is less about a universal rule and more about your dog’s age, health, lifestyle and your goals.
Below is a practical, no-nonsense guide to help you decide how wet food fits into a healthy feeding plan in Australia.
What counts as wet food?
Wet food is a complete or complementary dog diet sold in cans, trays or pouches with high moisture, usually 70 to 85 percent water. It appears as loaf or pâté, chunks in jelly, stews with gravy, even shredded meat textures. The water content is not a filler. It carries nutrients and affects how much your dog eats to hit their daily energy target.
Manufacturers cook wet food in a closed container. This retort process makes it shelf stable and safe to store unopened in the pantry. Once opened, it behaves like any fresh product and needs refrigeration.
The nutrition basics that matter
Think in terms of energy, nutrients and moisture. Most wet foods sit around 0.8 to 1.3 kcal per gram, while many kibbles range from 3.2 to 4.2 kcal per gram. That one fact drives feeding amounts and cost.
●Protein quality often tests well in wet diets. High beef, lamb, and other meat content, along with gentle cooking in a sealed container, can yield good digestibility.
●Fat varies wildly. Some tins are lean; others are rich and glossy. Fat raises palatability but can be risky for dogs prone to pancreatitis or weight gain.
● Carbohydrate content changes with style. Loaf foods can be low in starch. Gravy foods may use thickeners or gel-forming gums.
● Moisture supports hydration. That helps some dogs more than others.
Wet food, often grain free, can be complete and balanced or complementary. Look for a statement that the diet meets AAFCO or FEDIAF nutrient profiles for the life stage, or that it has undergone feeding trials. In Australia, many brands follow these standards and operate under the Australian Standard AS 5812 for pet food manufacturing.
Dog wet food is not just a flavour boost. In certain scenarios it offers real advantages.
● Hydration support
○ Dogs with urinary issues or those that forget to drink benefit from the extra water.
○ It can help reduce urine specific gravity, a handy aim in recurrent struvite uroliths.
● Appetite stimulation
○ Senior dogs, dogs on medication and fussy eaters often eat more reliably with wet food.
○ The aroma and soft texture tempt dogs with poor dentition or after dental procedures.
● Weight control with volume
○ Because wet food has fewer calories per gram, bowls look fuller for the same calories.
○ Many owners find it easier to manage hunger and begging when meals have more bulk.
● Digestive comfort
○ Highly digestible wet diets can assist during short-term gut upsets or after surgery.
○ Softer stools or firmer ones are both possible depending on fibre and fat, so observe and adjust.
● Tailored clinical nutrition
○ Veterinary therapeutic wet diets exist for kidney disease, liver disease, diabetes, urinary stones and more.
○ The water content supports the goals of several of these plans.
Potential downsides and common myths
Wet food is not perfect for every household or every dog.
● Dental health
○ It does not scrape teeth. Without brushing or dental chews, plaque and tartar tend to build faster.
○ Dental problems are not guaranteed on wet diets, but you will need an oral care plan.
● Cost per calorie
○ It often costs more for the same energy compared to kibble.
○ Buying by the carton and comparing cost per 1000 kcal helps tame the budget.
● Storage and waste
○ Open tins need refrigeration and should be used within 48 to 72 hours.
○ Some dogs turn their nose up at cold food. A brief warm-up can help.
● Ingredient worries
○ Thickeners like guar gum or cassia gum are widely used and safe at feed levels.
○ Grain-free messaging has confused many owners. Reports of DCM were primarily associated with certain legume-heavy dry diets in North America; evidence is evolving. Work with your vet if you have concerns.
Reading a wet food label like a pro
A label has to do more than look tasty. A few lines of text tell you whether the food meets your dog’s needs.
● Life stage: puppy growth, adult maintenance, all life stages, senior support or a veterinary therapeutic claim.
● Completeness: look for wording that the food is complete and balanced according to AAFCO or FEDIAF nutrient profiles, or proven by feeding trials.
● Typical analysis: given as-fed protein, fat, fibre, moisture and sometimes ash. To compare to other foods, you need dry matter.
● Energy content: metabolisable energy per 100 g or per can. This is crucial for portion control.
Dry matter conversion:
● Dry matter percent = 100 minus moisture percent.
● Nutrient on a dry matter basis = nutrient as-fed divided by dry matter, then multiply by 100.
A quick example:
● A tin shows moisture 78 percent and fat 5 percent.
● Dry matter is 22 percent.
● Fat on a dry matter basis is 5 divided by 22 times 100 which is about 23 percent DM.
Why does this matter? Dogs with pancreatitis often need lower fat diets. A tin with 5 percent fat as-fed might sound lean, but on a dry matter basis it could be quite rich.
Clinical guardrails many vets use:
● Pancreatitis-prone dogs: aim for fat under about 20 percent DM or under 4 g fat per 100 kcal.
● Kidney disease: phosphorus under about 150 mg per 100 kcal, moderate protein, omega 3 support.
● Heart disease: lower sodium, often around or under 100 mg per 100 kcal, depending on stage and medications.
Wet vs dry vs a mix
Here is a snapshot to compare feeding styles.
|
Criteria |
Mostly Wet Food |
Mostly Dry Food |
Mixed Feeding |
|
Hydration |
Excellent due to high moisture |
Relies on water bowl |
Good if wet makes up a meaningful portion |
|
Energy density |
Low, helps with satiety |
High, small portions pack calories |
Flexible |
|
Palatability |
Usually very high |
Variable |
Very high |
|
Dental effects |
Needs active dental care |
Some dental diets help slow plaque |
Still needs dental care |
|
Cost per 1000 kcal |
Often higher |
Often lower |
Middle ground |
|
Storage |
Refrigerate after opening |
Pantry friendly |
Manage both |
|
Portion accuracy |
Easy to overfeed with heaped spoons |
Cups can be inaccurate unless weighed |
Weigh both |
|
Special diets |
Many therapeutic options |
Many therapeutic options |
Useful for customising texture and calorie density |
|
Shelf life once opened |
2 to 3 days in fridge |
Weeks in an airtight container |
Mixed handling |
How much wet food to feed, in real numbers
Rules of thumb rarely fit every dog. Weight, age, breed tendencies, desexing status and activity all change calorie needs.
A reliable method:
- Calculate Resting Energy Requirement, RER = 70 x (body weight in kg)^0.75.
- Apply a multiplier for lifestyle to estimate daily calories. Common multipliers:
○ 1.6 for a typical desexed adult
○ 1.8 to 2.2 for entire adults
○ 1.2 for seniors who are couch potatoes
○ 2.0 to 3.0 for active working dogs
○ Puppies vary by age and size. Check the food label and your vet’s guidance.
Worked example for a 20 kg desexed adult:
● RER = 70 x 20^0.75. 20^0.75 is about 8.94. RER is about 626 kcal.
● Daily target with multiplier 1.6 is about 1000 kcal.
Now read the tin. If the food provides 320 kcal per 400 g can, that’s 0.8 kcal per gram and ensure it's grain free if needed.
● 1000 kcal divided by 320 kcal per can equals 3.1 cans per day.
● Split across two meals, about 1.5 to 1.6 cans per meal.
Mixing with kibble:
● If kibble provides 360 kcal per cup and you want half the calories from wet food, feed 1.5 cans wet (about 480 kcal) plus about 1.4 cups kibble (about 520 kcal).
● Weigh portions for accuracy. Cups and spoons vary.
Monitor and adjust:
● Aim for steady body condition. Feel ribs with a light sweep of your fingers, see a waist from above and a gentle tummy tuck from the side.
● Adjust by 10 percent up or down every 2 weeks until body condition is on target.
● Recalculate after desexing, changes in activity, or seasonal shifts.
Safe handling and storage at home
● Unopened tins: store in a cool, dry cupboard.
● After opening: cover the tin or decant into a sealed container, refrigerate and use within 48 to 72 hours.
● Serving temperature: many dogs prefer room temperature. A short warm-up in a water bath or 5 to 10 seconds in the microwave for a portion can help. Stir well and check for hot spots.
● Freezing: portion leftovers into silicone trays, freeze and thaw in the fridge. Most textures handle freezing fine.
● Hygiene: wash bowls daily in hot soapy water. Replace scratched plastic bowls that trap bacteria.
Dental care if wet food is your mainstay
Teeth do not clean themselves. If you feed mostly dog wet food, plan some extra care.
● Tooth brushing is the gold standard. Daily is ideal, a few times a week still helps. Use dog-safe toothpaste.
● Dental diets or VOHC accepted chews can reduce plaque and tartar accumulation.
● Water additives and gels exist. Results vary. Ask your vet which products have credible evidence.
● Schedule routine dental checks. Early tartar removal is simpler, cheaper and safer than major extractions.
Mixing wet and dry the smart way
Plenty of dogs thrive on a blend.
● Start with a clear calorie plan. Decide what proportion of calories come from each side, not just what looks like half the bowl, and consider including wet dog food to adjust moisture and palatability.
● Keep the diet complete and balanced. If adding home-cooked toppers, avoid large amounts that could unbalance calcium or other nutrients.
● Prevent pickiness. Mix thoroughly rather than placing wet food as a garnish. If your dog eats the gravy and leaves the kibble, reduce the contrast and portion size, then build up slowly.
● Consider texture goals. If your dog bolts kibble, a little wet food, such as lamb or beef-flavored options, can bind it together and slow intake. A puzzle feeder or lick mat spreads the meal and adds enrichment.
Special cases where vet input matters
Some conditions benefit from careful wet dog food diet selection and monitoring.
● Pancreatitis or fat intolerance
○ Choose lower fat on a dry matter basis, often under 20 percent DM. Check fat per 100 kcal as well. Many therapeutic wet diets are designed for this.
○ Feed smaller, more frequent meals to reduce post-meal fat surges.
● Chronic kidney disease
○ Prioritise lower phosphorus, moderate high-quality protein, and omega 3s. Wet therapeutic diets assist with hydration and appetite.
● Heart disease
○ Sodium control varies with disease stage. Combine wet therapeutic diets with your vet’s medication plan.
● Diabetes
○ Consistent timing and portion sizes matter. Some diabetic dogs do well on specific high-fibre or consistent carbohydrate wet diets, paired with insulin timing.
● Food allergy or adverse reactions
○ Use hydrolysed protein diets or carefully chosen novel protein wet foods. No extras during a strict 6 to 8 week trial.
● Puppies and large-breed growth
○ Growth diets must meet specific calcium and phosphorus ranges. Many wet puppy foods are suitable. Large-breed pups need tighter mineral control, so check the label or ask your vet for a brand list.
Transition plan that keeps tummies happy
Switching abruptly can unsettle the gut. Take a week, sometimes longer for sensitive dogs.
● Day 1 to 2: 75 percent old food, 25 percent new
● Day 3 to 4: 50 percent old, 50 percent new
● Day 5 to 6: 25 percent old, 75 percent new
● Day 7: 100 percent new
If stools soften, slow down. Add a little plain pumpkin or a vet-recommended probiotic for a few days. If vomiting, diarrhoea or skin flare-ups occur, pause and call your vet.
Budget tips for Australian households
Wet food can be costlier per calorie, but there are smart ways to manage it.
● Compare by energy, not by can size. Work out cost per 1000 kcal to find value.
● Buy by the carton during specials. Many supermarkets and pet stores rotate discounts.
● Store pouches and cans in a cool cupboard. Do not stockpile beyond the best before window.
● Use a kitchen scale for accuracy. Overfeeding wastes money.
● Consider a 50:50 or 30:70 wet to dry calorie split. You keep benefits of moisture and palatability while moderating cost.
● Look for brands that state AAFCO or FEDIAF compliance and contactable Australian customer care. The Australian Standard AS 5812 signals strong manufacturing practice.
Common styles and what they mean
● Loaf or pâté: uniform texture, easy to portion and mix with medicines. Often lower in visible starch.
● Chunks in gravy: higher water content per bite, with thickeners forming the sauce.
● Chunks in jelly: set gel holds shape. Dogs who like to lick may favour this style.
● Stew: shredded or diced meat with vegetables. Attractive presentation, variable meat to gravy ratio.
Texture influences speed of eating and satiety cues. Experiment within the same brand to find what suits your dog’s mouthfeel preferences and your handling needs.
What good wet food looks like on paper
When you assess a shortlist, keep an eye on:
● Clear complete and balanced statement for the right life stage
● Named protein sources high on the ingredient list
● Transparent energy declaration per 100 g or per pack
● Appropriate fat level for your dog’s risk profile
● Sensible sodium and phosphorus if your dog has heart or kidney considerations
● Useful extras: omega 3s from fish oil, prebiotic fibres, and named minerals and vitamins
A quick myth check
● “Wet food ruins teeth.” Not by itself. Lack of oral care ruins teeth. Pair wet food with brushing or dental chews and regular vet cleans.
● “Wet food is all water and no nutrition.” The nutrients are concentrated in the dry matter. Dogs meet their calorie and nutrient targets when you feed the right amount.
● “Dogs need crunchy food to be happy.” Many dogs prefer soft textures. Happiness comes from complete nutrition, positive mealtime routines and feeling well.
A simple checklist before you switch
● Speak with your vet if your dog has any medical diagnosis, is on long-term medication, or has a history of tummy upsets.
● Calculate calories from your dog’s weight and lifestyle, then map that to cans or pouches.
● Decide on wet only or a mix, and set your initial ratio by calories.
● Plan dental care from day one. Brushing is best; add chews or dental diets as needed.
● Pick two or three candidate foods that are complete and balanced and fit your budget.
● Transition slowly over a week, watching stools, appetite and energy.
● Re-weigh your dog in 2 to 3 weeks and adjust portions by about 10 percent if needed.
● Reassess every few months. Dogs change with seasons, age and activity.
Dog wet food can be a daily staple, a topper that sparks interest, or a therapeutic tool when health demands a specific approach. With label literacy, a clear calorie plan and a little dental care, it can fit beautifully in an Australian dog’s life.
How 77 Paws Can Support Your Dog’s Nutrition
With so many wet and dry food options on the market, finding what truly suits your dog can feel like a guessing game. That’s where 77 Paws comes in — a trusted Australian retailer focused on real nutrition, transparency, and care.
● Fast, reliable delivery — so your pantry is never empty when mealtime rolls around.
● Curated selection of premium wet and dry foods — chosen for quality ingredients and proven nutrition.
● Friendly, knowledgeable support — from a team that loves pets as much as you do.
Because every can you open or bowl you fill isn’t just food — it’s a daily act of love.
At 77 Paws, we’re here to make those moments easier, healthier, and happier.
Is raw feeding good for your dog?
Raw feeding in Sydney has become one of the most talked-about topics among local dog owners.
From park chats to vet visits, many pet parents are curious about whether raw diets really make a difference. Some swear their dogs thrive on a mix of fresh meat, organs, and bone — while others worry about hygiene, balance, and long-term safety.
The truth lies in understanding your dog’s individual needs, your household routine, and how to do raw feeding safely and responsibly.
This guide breaks down the real pros and cons, how to feed raw properly, when to avoid it, and what smarter alternatives are available for Sydney households.
What people mean when they say “raw”
Raw feeding usually refers to diets based on uncooked meat, edible bone, organs, and sometimes plant matter, including raw dog food as a key component. Two common styles are:
● BARF style: Muscle meat, meaty bones, organs, plus fruit, vegetables, and veg.
● Prey-model: Muscle meat, meaty bones, and organs only, no plant ingredients.
Within those, you’ll find lots of variation. Some people grind the entire mix. Others feed whole meaty bones and chunks. Some buy complete commercial raw meals. Many mix raw with kibble or gently cooked foods.
Why owners consider raw in the first place
People who switch often cite these goals:
● Better stool quality and smaller volume
● Shinier coat and healthier skin
● Fresher breath and cleaner teeth
● Increased enthusiasm at mealtimes
● Managing suspected food sensitivities
● Preference for minimally processed, natural foods
● Greater control over ingredients
Plenty of dogs do very well on high quality kibble and cooked food too. The key difference with raw is the need for strict hygiene and balanced formulation. That is where results rise or fall.
What the evidence currently supports
Research on raw diets is growing, although still uneven. Some points with support:
● Palatability tends to be high. Many dogs enjoy raw texture and aroma.
● Stool volume often reduces on higher protein, lower filler diets, which can occur with raw or with premium cooked diets.
● Chewing large raw meaty items can reduce soft plaque in some dogs. It can also damage teeth if the bone is dense.
● Micronutrient imbalances are common in home-made raw diets that are not carefully designed against recognised nutrient profiles.
● Pathogenic and antibiotic resistant bacteria are found more often in raw products and in the stools of raw-fed dogs. This increases household exposure risk.
That mix of pros and cons explains why vets and nutritionists give careful, sometimes cautious advice. It can work well when done safely and precisely, but it is not forgiving of shortcuts.
The risk list, spelled out plainly
● Bacterial contamination: Salmonella, Campylobacter, Listeria and E. coli can be present in raw meat. Dogs can carry and shed these bacteria, even when they look perfectly healthy. People in the household face exposure through handling and environmental contamination.
● Bone injuries: Broken teeth, choking, oesophageal blockage, constipation or perforation can occur. Weight bearing bones of large animals are the main culprits for fractures.
● Nutrient gaps or excesses: Calcium and phosphorus ratio is critical, especially for puppies. Trace minerals like iodine, zinc, copper and manganese are easy to miss. Fat soluble vitamins can be overdone with certain organs and oils.
● Pancreatitis: Diets too high in fat can trigger issues in susceptible dogs.
● Parasites: Freezing helps lower parasite risk. Wild game has higher risk than human-grade farmed meats. Australia is free of some parasites found overseas, but not all.
● Sulphite preservatives: Some pet mince in Australia contains sulphites that destroy thiamine and can cause severe deficiency. Choose human-grade meats that disclose ingredients, or raw products that confirm no sulphites.
None of these are reasons to panic. They are reasons to plan.
Food safety at home
Treat your kitchen like a small commercial prep space on raw day.
● Buy human-grade meat from reputable suppliers. If using commercial raw, look for products that state they meet AAFCO or FEDIAF profiles.
● Freeze meat for 3 to 7 days at home freezer temperatures to reduce parasite risk. Thaw in the fridge, not on the bench.
● Keep a dedicated chopping board, knife, and storage containers. Sanitise with hot water and detergent, then rinse and dry thoroughly.
● Portion meals in sealed containers. Refrigerate for up to 48 hours or freeze.
● Wash hands before and after handling. Clean bowls and feeding areas after every meal.
● Feed in a space that is easy to wipe down. Avoid letting raw-fed dogs lick faces of infants or immunocompromised people.
● Pick up stools promptly, especially in shared areas.
Simple routines like these cut risk substantially.
Bones: help or hazard?
Bones are the most polarising part of raw feeding. They can contribute to bone health by providing mineral balance and satisfying chewing. They can also cause expensive dental and gastrointestinal problems.
● Do not feed cooked bones. They splinter easily.
● Avoid dense weight bearing bones from large animals. These are the number one reason for fractured carnassial teeth.
● If you want the dental workout without fracture risk, consider raw meaty parts with plenty of soft tissue or ground raw meaty bones. Many owners find chicken frames or wings too small or risky for gulpers, so adjust to the dog.
● Supervise. Offer pieces larger than the dog can swallow whole. Take away the hard, polished ends once the good stuff is eaten.
● If your dog has a history of pancreatitis, oral surgery, crown wear, or is a determined crusher, skip whole bones altogether. Use dental chews with Veterinary Oral Health Council claims or a toothbrush and dog toothpaste.
Puppies, pregnant and lactating, and seniors
Growth and reproduction have the tightest nutrient targets in canine nutrition, especially when incorporating raw dog food. Small mistakes can have big consequences.
Puppies: Calcium to phosphorus should sit roughly between 1.1 and 1.5:1, with a steady intake day to day. Oversupply or undersupply can lead to skeletal problems, especially in large breeds. Use a recipe formulated by a qualified professional, or a commercial raw labelled complete and balanced for growth.
Pregnant and lactating females: Energy needs rise quickly. Micronutrients like calcium, iodine, copper, and DHA matter for mum and pups. Precision is non-negotiable.
Seniors: Raw can work if the dog is healthy, but dental wear, reduced immune function, kidney disease, or a history of pancreatitis often shifts the choice toward lightly cooked or gently-cooked options.
If in doubt, ask your vet for a referral to a veterinary nutritionist who can build a raw feeding or lightly cooked recipe tailored to your dog.
Working and sporting dogs
Natural raw diets can fit high output dogs, but watch:
● Energy density and fat levels across training blocks
● Recovery needs for omega 3 fatty acids
● Hydration and sodium when exercising in heat
● Consistency for gut comfort during competition
Many handlers use mixed feeding to balance practicality, with a high quality kibble base and raw toppers on lighter days.
Allergies and gut issues
Food allergies in dogs relate to proteins, not grains or carbs per se. Moving to raw may help only if the new diet avoids the trigger protein. If your dog has chronic gut trouble, raw may aggravate things during flares due to higher bacterial load. A lightly cooked elimination diet under veterinary guidance usually works better for diagnosis, then you can decide on raw later.
Building a balanced raw menu
Here is a common framework used by owners who prepare raw at home. Treat it as a starting point for discussion with a professional, not a final plan.
● 70 to 80 percent muscle meat, including heart
● 10 percent edible bone, adjusted to maintain firm but not chalky stools
● 10 percent organs, split as 5 percent liver and 5 percent other secreting organs like kidney, spleen or pancreas
● 0 to 10 percent blended plant matter, if following a BARF-style plan
Key add-ons often required:
● Omega 3: Oily fish a few times per week or a measured fish oil. Add vitamin E when using fish oil regularly.
● Iodine: Carefully dosed kelp or a formulated iodine supplement. Overdoing kelp is common.
● Manganese: Green tripe, mussels, or a supplement can cover this gap.
● Zinc and copper: Balance depends on meat choice. Beef helps zinc. Liver carries copper but do not overfeed it.
● Vitamin D: Fatty fish can help. Some meats are low.
Puppies and large breeds need tighter control than an adult pet. Recipe software and labelling claims are helpful, but a full recipe review by a veterinary nutritionist is the gold standard.
A simple example day
This is not a prescription. It illustrates proportion and variety for a healthy 20 kg adult with moderate activity.
● Morning: Mince blend of beef and kangaroo with ground chicken frames for bone content, mixed with a small amount of blended vegetables like spinach, carrot, and blueberries
● Evening: Lamb heart and turkey thigh pieces with lamb liver and kidney
● Add: Fish oil to reach EPA and DHA targets, vitamin E, and a micro-mineral mix designed for raw feeders
Watch body condition, stool quality, energy levels, coat, dental health, and bone health. Adjust fat and bone percentages as needed.
Commercial raw in Australia
The market here is active, with both frozen and freeze-dried formats. When choosing:
● Look for products that state they meet AAFCO or FEDIAF nutrient profiles for your dog’s life stage, or that have feeding trial data.
● Ask about pathogen control steps. Some use high pressure processing to reduce bacteria while keeping food raw.
● Check that no sulphite preservatives are used.
● Examine calcium sources. Are bones ground and included? Is the ratio suitable for growth if you are feeding a puppy?
If the label is vague, contact the company. Clear answers are a positive sign.
Raw, kibble, or gently cooked: a practical comparison
|
Factor |
Raw diets |
Quality kibble |
Gently cooked diets |
|
Ingredient control |
High if home prepared |
Moderate |
High if home prepared |
|
Food safety risk at home |
Higher, needs strict hygiene |
Low |
Lower than raw |
|
Nutrient balance reliability |
Variable unless professionally formulated |
High in complete products |
High if recipe is designed by a professional |
|
Dental benefits |
Possible with safe chewing, also risk of fractures |
Needs brushing or VOHC chews |
Needs brushing or VOHC chews |
|
Cost |
From moderate to high |
From low to high |
Usually high |
|
Convenience |
Lower, requires prep and freezer space |
High |
Moderate |
|
Suitability for puppies |
Only if complete and balanced for growth |
Many excellent options |
Yes with a vetted recipe |
|
Household risk to people |
Higher |
Low |
Low |
Red flags and myths
● “Dogs cannot get sick from Salmonella.” They can, and they can pass it to people without obvious signs themselves.
● “A bit of meat and a bone is balanced.” It is not. Without organ meats and the right minerals, gaps appear quickly.
● “All preservatives are bad.” Some are benign or useful. The concern here is sulphites in pet mince, which wreck thiamine.
● “If stools look fine, the diet is balanced.” Stool quality is not a reliable marker for micronutrients.
● “Kibble is all carbs and sugar.” Better kibbles use animal proteins and controlled starch. Dogs can digest starch quite well.
When raw may not be the right fit
● Households with infants, older adults, pregnant people, or anyone with reduced immune function
● Dogs with a history of pancreatitis, severe gastrointestinal disease, or previous oesophageal or gastric surgery
● Dogs that gulp food or have a track record of breaking teeth
● Owners who prefer low-prep feeding or cannot allocate freezer space
When raw can work well
● Healthy adult dogs with strong teeth and sensible chewing behaviour
● Owners who enjoy food prep, are serious about hygiene, and use a balanced recipe
● Situations where a specific ingredient list is needed and commercial options have failed
Smarter compromises that keep many benefits
If you like the idea of fresh food and a balanced diet but want less risk:
● Lightly cooked diets: Same ingredients as raw, but cooked to reduce bacterial load. Balance with a professional recipe.
● High pressure processed raw: Keeps the food raw while reducing pathogens.
● Mixed feeding: Pair premium kibble with safe fresh toppers like cooked lean meat, tinned sardines in spring water, steamed vegetables, or a complete raw dog food portion from a trusted brand.
● Chewing alternatives: VOHC-approved dental chews, toothbrush and paste, or rubber chew toys filled with fresh food.
Australian quirks to know
● Pet shop mince can legally contain sulphite preservatives. Choose human-grade meats or brands that state no sulphites.
● Kangaroo is lean with a strong mineral profile but can be tough on dogs needing higher fat. Pair it with fattier meats to meet energy needs.
● Pork safety is better in Australia than in many regions. Freezing still helps with general parasite control.
● Salmon poisoning disease is not a local issue, although freshwater fish fed raw can introduce other parasites. Use ocean fish and avoid feeding raw wild freshwater fish.
● Hydatids from wild game offal can be a risk. Freezing and sourcing from inspected suppliers lowers it.
Talking to your vet without arguments
Arrive with notes on your raw feeding plan, supplier details, and any recipe you intend to follow. A good conversation covers:
● Life stage suitability and any medical flags
● Your hygiene steps at home
● Precise calcium and phosphorus sources
● Plans for omega 3, vitamin E, iodine, and trace minerals
● Monitoring: body condition, stool quality, bloodwork if indicated
If your regular vet is not comfortable designing raw diets, ask for a referral to a veterinary nutritionist. Many can build raw or gently cooked plans by teleconsult across Australia.
A quick getting-started checklist
● Decide if raw suits your household and your dog’s medical history.
● Choose either a complete commercial raw or a professionally formulated home recipe.
● Stock essential hygiene gear and set up storage space.
● Source human-grade meat, organs, a safe bone plan or ground bone, and ensure the diet supports bone health.
● Add omega 3 and vitamin E as required by the recipe.
● Start gradually over 5 to 7 days, watching stools and appetite.
● Keep records: weight, body condition score, energy, coat, and any dental issues.
● Review the plan with your vet at the next check-up.
Final note on balance and flexibility
Perfection is not required, but natural consistency matters. A raw approach can suit many dogs when recipes are balanced, hygiene is tight, and bones are handled with care. For others, lightly cooked or mixed feeding gives nearly all the upsides with a calmer risk profile. The right answer is the one that protects your dog’s health, fits your lifestyle, and keeps tails wagging at mealtime.
Raw feeding in Sydney is growing fast, with more dog owners looking for natural, minimally processed options that fit the Aussie lifestyle.
Whether you’re starting from scratch or fine-tuning your current routine, the key is safety, balance, and choosing foods made to recognised standards.
Raw feeding isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution — it’s about finding what truly works for your dog and your lifestyle. At 77 Paws, we understand that nutrition choices come with questions, and we’re here to help. If you prefer ready-made solutions, 77 Paws stocks a curated range of complete raw and lightly-cooked options that state compliance with AAFCO/FEDIAF and align with AS 5812 guidelines
What is a Good Dry Dog Food? Tips for Pet Owners
Choosing kibble should feel reassuring, not confusing. The best dry dog food supports steady energy, a healthy skin and coat, firm stools, and a dog that stays in ideal body condition without constant tweaking.
That sweet spot comes from matching the recipe to your dog’s age, size, activity level, and unique needs, then making sure the food is nutritionally complete and made by a company that takes quality control seriously.
You can see good nutrition in everyday life — bright eyes, fresh breath, calm digestion, and excitement at mealtime.
If you’re in Sydney, having a trusted pet store like 77 Paws makes the choice easier. We stock a curated range of premium brands and can help you find the right balance for your dog’s lifestyle.
Below is a practical guide to assessing dry dog food and choosing with confidence.
When considering what is a good dry dog food, it's important to take into account both nutritional quality and your dog's specific needs. A high-quality dry dog food should list named animal proteins, like chicken or turkey, as the primary ingredients and avoid vague terms such as "meat" or "animal digest." The best dry dog foods also incorporate a good balance of fats for energy, and use natural preservatives and chelated minerals for enhanced nutrient absorption. Foods that are complete and balanced for the dog's stage of life provide the necessary nutrients for their health and wellbeing.
Start with your dog’s real needs
Different dogs thrive on different nutrient profiles. Before reading labels, pin down a few essentials.
● Life stage
○ Puppy - growth recipes, especially for large breed puppies
○ Adult - maintenance formulas
○ Senior - often lower calories, joint and brain support
● Size
○ Small breeds - higher metabolisms, small kibble size
○ Large and giant breeds - controlled calcium in puppyhood, joint support later on
● Activity level
○ Couch companion vs agility dog or working dog
● Health considerations
○ Sensitive stomach, skin issues, allergies or intolerances, urinary concerns, weight control
A dog with itchy skin may need a limited-ingredient recipe with stable omega-3s. A sprinting kelpie may benefit from higher fat and protein, and incorporating a brand like Lyka could be beneficial for meeting their unique dietary needs. A large breed puppy needs careful calcium and energy density to support slow, steady growth.
What “complete and balanced” really means
In Australia, many brands formulate to AAFCO nutrient profiles, and a growing number follow the Australian Standard AS 5812, which sets guidance for the manufacturing and marketing of pet food. Look for statements that confirm a food is complete and balanced for your dog’s life stage. You’ll usually see one of these:
● Formulated to meet AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for a stated life stage
● Proven adequate by AAFCO feeding trials for a stated life stage
Feeding trials tend to provide stronger evidence of real-world performance, though formulation to profiles is common and reliable when done by experienced nutrition teams. If a label says “all life stages,” it must meet puppy standards, which are higher in many nutrients. That can be a bit much for some adult dogs, so adult maintenance formulas are often a better everyday fit unless you have a very active dog or a pregnant or lactating female.
Decoding the label without the guesswork
Ingredients are listed by weight before cooking. Fresh meat contains a lot of water, so “meat meal” can be a concentrated protein source. What you want is clarity and quality.
● Named animal proteins near the top - chicken, beef, lamb, salmon, turkey, kangaroo
● Balanced fat sources - chicken fat, fish oil for DHA and EPA
● Sensible carbohydrates - oats, rice, barley, sorghum, or legumes in balanced amounts
● Fibre sources - beet pulp, pumpkin, chicory root, psyllium, or similar
● Vitamins and minerals - ideally including chelated minerals for better absorption
● Stability - a natural preservative like mixed tocopherols
Be wary of vague terms like “meat” without specifying the animal, or “animal digest” without detail, especially if they dominate the ingredient list.
Quick-reference table for label terms
|
Label term |
What it signals |
|
Complete and balanced |
Meets a recognised nutrient profile for a life stage |
|
All life stages |
Meets puppy growth standards - can be rich for some adult dogs |
|
Meat first |
Good sign, though added water in fresh meat can skew perception |
|
Meat meal |
Concentrated protein - fine when named and of good quality |
|
By-products |
Mixed bag - can be nutritious if quality controlled and named |
|
Grain-free |
Useful for certain dogs - not automatically better |
|
Natural preservatives |
Mixed tocopherols, rosemary, vitamin C sources |
|
Chelated minerals |
Improved mineral absorption potential |
|
Probiotics/Prebiotics |
Supports gut health if viable and in meaningful amounts |
Protein quality and quantity
Protein fuels muscle, organ function, enzymes, and immune health. The source and digestibility matter as much as the percentage.
● Adults often do well with 24 to 32 percent crude protein
● Puppies usually sit higher, 26 to 35 percent, with emphasis on amino acid balance
● Look for named animal proteins - salmon, chicken, lamb, turkey, kangaroo, beef
● Rotating protein sources can help reduce the risk of sensitivities over time
Meat meals provide concentrated protein once water is removed. A formula that lists both fresh chicken and chicken meal early in the list often indicates robust protein density. Soy, peas, and chickpeas can contribute protein, but the best digestibility usually comes from animal sources.
Fats and omega-3s
Fat carries flavor, delivers energy, and supports skin, coat, brain, and hormone function.
● Adults often thrive with 12 to 18 percent crude fat
● Active dogs may benefit from 18 to 22 percent
● Puppies and seniors need steady omega-3 support
Look for fish oil or algal oil named on the label for EPA and DHA. Chicken fat is a strong energy source and widely tolerated. Seeds like flaxseed add ALA, though dogs convert ALA to EPA and DHA poorly, so direct sources of marine omega-3s are valuable.
Carbohydrates and fibre without the hype
Carbohydrates provide energy and help form a kibble that holds together. Dogs can digest starch well when it is cooked properly. Balanced fibre supports gut health and stool quality.
● Whole grains like oats, barley, rice, and sorghum work well for many dogs
● Legumes like peas and lentils are fine in moderation
● Look for 3 to 6 percent crude fibre for most dogs
● Sensitive stomachs often benefit from beet pulp, chicory root, or pumpkin seed
There has been debate about dilated cardiomyopathy and boutique, exotic, or grain-free foods. The picture is complex and not fully settled. If you prefer grain-free, choose a brand with strong manufacturing standards, balanced legumes in the top half of the ingredient list, and added taurine, carnitine, and marine omega-3s. Speak with your vet if your dog is a predisposed breed.
The micronutrient layer
Big-ticket nutrients get the headlines, but the small stuff, like flavor additives, does plenty of heavy lifting.
● Chelated minerals like zinc proteinate may absorb better
● Added vitamins should match the life stage and processing stability
● DHA for puppies and seniors is helpful for brain health
● Vitamin E plus fish oil keeps the skin barrier in good shape
● Probiotics like Enterococcus or Lactobacillus can support regular stools if stored properly
● Prebiotics like FOS and MOS feed friendly bacteria
If your dog has joint concerns, look for recipes that include green lipped mussel, glucosamine, and chondroitin. These aren’t magic on their own, but they can support other management steps.
Ingredients and practices to approach carefully
Absolute rules rarely hold, but a few patterns tend to correlate with poorer outcomes.
● Vague proteins - “animal”, “meat” without a species
● Artificial colours - dogs do not need food dye
● Too many legumes listed before any grains or animal meal
● Heavy use of plant proteins to inflate overall protein percentage
● Excess salt or sugar
● Preservatives like BHA and BHT in high amounts
● Claims that feel too good to be true without data
If a company refuses to answer simple questions about who formulates the food, where it is made, or whether it meets AAFCO profiles or AS 5812, move on.
Dental health and kibble shape
While dry food won’t clean teeth on its own, certain kibble shapes and fibres can reduce plaque. If teeth are a focus, consider:
● Kibble sized to match jaw size and bite pattern
● Recipes that note specific dental technology
● Dental chews that carry credible third-party approval
● A realistic plan for brushing a few times a week
Teeth respond best to a combination approach: diet choices, chews, and brushing.
Special cases that benefit from tailored recipes
● Sensitive stomach
○ Look for simpler ingredient lists, moderate fat, and stable fibres
○ Avoid frequent changes once you find a fit
● Skin and coat issues
○ Higher omega-3s, named fish oils, and controlled common allergens
● Weight control
○ Higher protein, lower calories per cup, and meaningful fibre
● Large breed puppies
○ Controlled calcium to phosphorus ratio around 1.2 to 1.4 to 1
○ Energy density that supports slow growth
● Seniors
○ Slightly higher protein than you might expect, steady omega-3s, and joint support
Speak with your vet before major changes when there are medical conditions in play, and consider brands like Lyka. Diet is powerful, and a little guidance goes a long way.
When considering what is a good dry dog food, it's important to assess both nutritional content and the manufacturing practices of the brand. A good dry dog food will often include high-quality protein sources as the primary ingredient, a balance of healthy fats and carbohydrates, and necessary vitamins and minerals. Additionally, these foods should be free from artificial preservatives, colors, and flavors. It's also beneficial to check for a brand that offers formulas tailored to specific life stages of the dog, as well as any particular health needs or preferences your pet might have. Consulting with a veterinarian can provide guidance tailored to your dog's individual needs and help you choose an appropriate dry food option.
Quality control behind the scenes
You’re buying the recipe, but you’re also buying the manufacturer’s process. Strong companies:
● Employ qualified nutritionists
● Track batch numbers and source ingredients consistently
● Test for pathogens and nutrient targets
● Publish or share digestibility data
● Provide a direct line to customer support with real answers
Pet food recalls are rare in Australia, yet transparency helps keep them that way. A brand that volunteers details on sourcing and testing tends to earn trust.
Price, value, and the cost to feed
Price per bag tells only part of the story. Dense foods often cost more per kilo but feed fewer cups. To compare value, estimate the cost to feed per day.
A quick method:
- Find calories per cup on the bag or brand website
- Use your dog’s daily calorie target
- Divide daily calories by calories per cup to get cups per day
- Multiply cups per day by cost per cup
Example:
● Food A: 395 kcal per cup, $139 for 12 kg bag, roughly 48 cups per bag
● Cost per cup: $139 ÷ 48 ≈ $2.90
● Dog needs 800 kcal per day
● 800 ÷ 395 ≈ 2.0 cups per day
● Daily cost ≈ 2.0 × $2.90 = $5.80
Now compare that against another product. You might find the pricier bag is actually cheaper to feed.
Transitioning without tummy troubles
Most dogs handle change well if you switch gradually.
● Days 1 to 3 - 25 percent new, 75 percent current
● Days 4 to 6 - 50 percent new, 50 percent current
● Days 7 to 9 - 75 percent new, 25 percent current
● Day 10 - 100 percent new
Watch stool quality and energy. If stools soften, slow down the transition and add a spoon of plain pumpkin or a targeted fibre supplement if your vet agrees.
Storage and freshness
A brilliant recipe can underperform if it goes stale.
● Keep kibble in the original bag inside an airtight container
● Squeeze out air and reseal after scooping
● Store in a cool, dry place away from sunlight
● Buy a bag size you’ll finish within 4 to 6 weeks
● Avoid pouring bags into a bin without the liner - the bag helps protect nutrients
Fish-rich and high omega-3 recipes are more sensitive to oxidation, so be extra careful with storage and shelf life.
Smart rotation without chaos
Rotating compatible foods can broaden nutrient exposure and help prevent fussiness.
● Keep the same life stage and a similar fat level when rotating
● Change one thing at a time - protein, brand, or carb base, not all three
● Transition over 7 to 10 days even within the same brand line
● Keep notes on stool quality, energy, and skin
If your dog has a history of allergies, stick with a stable diet plan recommended by your vet.
Five signs a kibble is a solid choice
● A clear statement of nutritional adequacy for your dog’s life stage
● Named animal proteins high on the ingredient list
● Evidence of thoughtful fat choices, with fish or algal oil for omega-3s
● Flavor, taste, and digestibility that produce consistent stools and steady energy
● A manufacturer that explains sourcing, testing, and who formulates the food
● When searching for what is a good dry dog food, consider factors like nutritional content, ingredient quality, and suitability for your dog's specific needs. It's essential to look for a clear nutritional adequacy statement that aligns with your dog's life stage, named animal proteins at the top of the ingredient list, and balanced fat sources such as fish or algal oil for essential omega-3s. These elements ensure consistent stool quality and energy levels. Always choose a reputable manufacturer that provides transparency in sourcing and production processes, making sure the food is balanced to support your pet's health and wellbeing.
Common myths that deserve a second look
● “Grain-free is always better.”
Not for every dog. Many do brilliantly on whole-grain formulas. The best choice is the one that fits your dog’s needs and is properly balanced.
● “Higher protein is always better.”
Too much protein without balancing fat and energy can cause weight gain or loose stools. Quality and balance matter more than a race to the top.
● “Dry food cleans teeth.”
Some specific diets can reduce plaque, but brushing and dental chews are still key.
● “By-products are bad.”
Unnamed by-products are a red flag. Named, quality-controlled organ meats can be nutrient-rich. Transparency is the issue.
● “You must stick to one brand forever.”
Some dogs benefit from variety. Rotate thoughtfully if your dog tolerates change.
A simple checklist you can use in the aisle
● Life stage and size match the label
● Complete and balanced statement is present
● Protein 24 to 32 percent for most adults, higher for puppies and athletes
● Named animal proteins up top
● Fat 12 to 18 percent for most adults, with fish or algal oil listed
● Fibre around 3 to 6 percent, with friendly sources
● No vague animal ingredients, no artificial colours
● Clear feeding guide and calories per cup supplied
● Bag size you can finish within 4 to 6 weeks
● A brand that answers questions about formulation and testing
Snap a photo of the label and compare against this list. It quickly separates the strong contenders from the rest.
Where to get reliable help in Sydney
If you’re in Sydney and want practical guidance on choosing the best dry dog food, visit 77 Paws — your local destination for premium pet nutrition. We stock a curated range of dry dog foods from trusted Australian and international brands known for strong quality control, clear nutrition claims, and transparent ingredient sourcing.
Our friendly team takes the time to understand your dog’s age, breed, weight, activity level, and sensitivities, so you can find a recipe that truly fits. Whether you’re looking for grain-free kibble, sensitive-stomach formulas, lyka, or high-protein dry food for active dogs, we make it easy to choose confidently.
At 77 Paws Sydney, you’ll also find premium treats, and essentials — all selected to support your pet’s health and happiness.
A well-chosen kibble pays off every day. Pick a sound base, store it properly, adjust feeding to keep a lean shape, and check in with your vet regularly. With 77 Paws’ expert advice and trusted brands, your dog’s meals do what they should: fuel a healthy, active life.
How to Feed Cats Raw Food: A Beginner's Guide
Raw feeding appeals to many cat guardians because it aligns closely with what felines are built to eat. Cats are obligate carnivores. Their teeth, stomach acid and metabolic machinery are designed for meat, organs and the minerals found in bone. Done right, a raw diet can be balanced, highly digestible and very satisfying for picky eaters.
Done poorly, it can miss calcium, taurine or vitamins, and that is where consulting a veterinarian becomes crucial to avoid health problems. The good news is you don’t have to mince and measure it all yourself. Complete raw patties make it simple to feed with confidence while keeping the menu biologically appropriate.
Below is a practical guide to feeding raw food safely and correctly, incorporating feeding guidelines with clear quantities, product options and day‑to‑day tips any busy household can use.
What a balanced raw diet looks like
A natural prey template guides most successful raw diets for cats. Think muscle meat for protein and energy, edible bone for calcium and phosphorus, and organs for vitamins, minerals and taurine.
● Protein is high, fat is moderate, carbohydrates are very low.
● Calcium to phosphorus sits close to 1.2 to 1 for skeletal health.
● Taurine is non negotiable and must be supplied daily.
Protein, fat and carbs in the right range
● Protein: Cats thrive on very high animal protein. Practical targets for a raw, prey-style diet are about 50 to 60 percent protein on a dry matter basis.
● Fat: Aim for roughly 20 to 30 percent fat on a dry matter basis, which provides energy and essential fatty acids without overloading the gut.
● Carbohydrate: Keep it minimal. Cats have limited need for starch. Low carb diets generally suit their physiology.
Micronutrients cats must get every day
● Taurine for heart and eye health. Hearts and dark poultry meat help, and reputable formulas also add taurine to guarantee adequacy.
● Calcium and phosphorus in balance. Ground bone or a measured calcium source is essential. The Ca:P ratio should sit near 1.1 to 1.5 to 1.
● Vitamins A, D, E and B group. Liver supplies vitamin A, but commercial raw formulas also add a vitamin and mineral mix to meet recognised standards for all life stages.
The simple 80-10-5-5 rule
A handy way to visualise balance:
● 80 to 84 percent muscle meat
● 6 to 10 percent edible bone
● 5 percent liver
● 5 percent other secreting organ
Complete raw patties are built to this template, then finished with a small vitamin and mineral premix for consistency.
Ready-made raw that gets the balance right
If you’d like the convenience of raw feeding without the DIY risks, Proudi patties are a strong option. They are complete and balanced, made from human-grade Australian meat and designed for everyday feeding.
The two recipes below show how easy and balanced raw feeding can be.
77 Paws offers a wider range of Raw food made from various Australian proteins, so you can choose what best suits your cat’s taste and sensitivities.
Discover more options on the 77 Paws website.
Two useful recipes for common feline needs are highlighted below.
Turkey and chicken for cats with red meat sensitivities
Proudi Premium Raw Turkey & Chicken Patties for Cats suit cats that react to red meats or have sensitive stomachs.
● Ingredient highlights: 100 percent Australian turkey and chicken, including breast, heart, gizzard, liver and skin. The recipe includes linseed, ground bone, calcium carbonate, dried kelp, taurine and a trace mineral and vitamin mix.
● Composition: About 97 percent meat, organs, moisture and ground bone, with 3 percent vitamins and minerals.
● Typical energy per patty: about 131 kcal.
● As-fed analysis guide: protein around 12.6 percent, fat around 10.1 percent, carbohydrate around 2.2 percent, fibre low. That lands at roughly 54 percent protein and 43 percent fat on a dry matter basis.
What this means at the bowl: high animal protein, appropriate fat, negligible carbs, taurine on label, and bone-derived calcium to hit that 1.2 to 1 Ca:P ratio.
Red Combo for variety or white meat intolerance
Some cats react to poultry or just prefer the flavour profile of red meats. The Red Combo Patties blend lamb, kangaroo, pork and beef.
● Ingredient highlights: 100 percent Australian deboned beef with liver and kidney, deboned kangaroo, deboned pork, deboned lamb. Linseed and pumpkin seed contribute small amounts of fibre and fatty acids. Taurine, vitamins, minerals and ground vacuum dried bone are included.
● Composition: 97 percent meat, organs, moisture and ground bone with 3 percent vitamins and minerals.
● As-fed typical analysis:
○ Protein 13.9 percent
○ Fat 11.9 percent
○ Fibre 2.1 percent
○ Carbohydrate 1.5 percent
○ Moisture 72 percent
○ Ash 1.4 percent
● Energy: 1522 kcal per kg, about 137 kcal per 90 g patty.
Both recipes are complete for daily use. You can rotate them to keep palates interested or to manage sensitivities.
How much to feed: simple rules that work
Every cat is an individual, but these rules get you close. Fine tune weekly by watching weight, muscle, waist and appetite.
● Underweight or very active: 3 to 4 percent of current body weight per day.
● Ideal weight: 2 to 3 percent of body weight per day.
● Overweight: 1.5 to 2 percent of body weight per day.
A calorie cross‑check helps. Adult cats often sit around 50 to 60 kcal per kg per day. Since Proudi patties contain about 131 to 137 kcal each, patties per day equal your cat’s daily kcal need divided by the kcal per patty.
Daily feeding guide by body weight
Use the table below as a starting point, then adjust to keep an ideal body condition score of 4 to 5 out of 9.
|
Cat Weight |
Grams Per Day |
Patties Per Day |
|
2 kg |
54 g |
0.5 |
|
4 kg |
87 g |
1.0 |
|
6 kg |
114 g |
1.25 |
|
8 kg |
138 g |
1.5 |
|
10 kg |
160 g |
1.7 |
|
12 kg |
181 g |
2.0 |
Amounts vary with breed, age, activity and environment, so always refer to feeding guidelines. Always provide fresh water.
Life stage tweaks
● Kittens: 4 to 8 percent of body weight per day, split into 3 to 4 meals. Reduce gradually toward adult levels by 10 to 12 months.
● Adults: 2 to 3 percent of body weight per day. Indoor desexed cats often sit at the lower end.
● Seniors: protect muscle with high quality protein, but watch calories. Many do well on about 10 to 20 percent fewer calories than at midlife. If appetite dips, consider smaller, more frequent meals.
● Pregnant and lactating queens: increase intake in late gestation to about 125 to 150 percent of maintenance. During lactation, energy needs can double or even triple. Offer more frequent feeds and monitor body condition closely.
Transitioning to raw without drama
Most cats switch smoothly if you go steady and keep the food fresh.
● Days 1 to 3: 25 percent raw with their current diet.
● Days 4 to 6: 50 percent raw.
● Days 7 to 9: 75 percent raw.
● Day 10 onward: 100 percent raw.
Extra tips:
● Serve meals at room temperature, not fridge‑cold.
● Add a teaspoon of warm water and mix to boost aroma.
● If your cat is suspicious, crumble a favourite topper very lightly over the new food.
● Maintain meal hygiene during the transition as you would for full raw.
Safe handling and storage
Raw feeding is simple when you treat it like your own kitchen workflow.
● Keep frozen patties in the freezer. Thaw in the fridge in a sealed container.
● Use thawed portions within 48 to 72 hours. Do not refreeze once fully thawed.
● Wash hands, utensils and bowls with hot soapy water after each meal.
● Store patties away from ready‑to‑eat human foods. Keep your fridge at or below 4°C.
● Dispose of uneaten raw food that has sat out for longer than 30 minutes, especially on warm days.
(this product is refrigerated and currently available for local delivery or pickup in Sydney only.)
Protein choices, allergies and rotation
Choosing the right protein can support comfort, stool quality and skin health.
● Poultry like turkey and chicken is mild, lean and often a hit with sensitive stomachs.
● Red meats like lamb and beef are calorie dense and rich in iron and zinc. Kangaroo is very lean and often considered novel, which can help with food trials.
● Some cats react to common proteins like chicken or beef. A single‑protein or novel‑protein phase can calm things down.
Signs that suggest a food reaction:
● Itchy face, neck or ears
● Recurrent ear issues
● Chronic soft stools, vomiting unrelated to hairballs
● Poor coat despite good parasite control
If you suspect an adverse food reaction, run a strict elimination diet with your veterinarian. Feed one carefully selected, complete formula for 8 to 12 weeks with no treats or flavoured meds. If signs improve, reintroduce the previous protein once to confirm.
Rotation feeding keeps palates keen and may reduce risk from constant exposure to one protein. Switching between a poultry‑based patty and a red meat patty every few weeks is an easy way to add variety without sacrificing balance.
What each ingredient is doing for your cat
Complete raw formulas are simple on the label for a reason, but every component earns its place.
● Muscle meat: rich in essential amino acids for tissue repair, immunity and daily energy.
● Hearts and gizzards: naturally high in taurine and other micronutrients.
● Liver and other secreting organs: packed with vitamin A, B vitamins, iron and copper.
● Ground bone: supplies calcium and phosphorus for teeth and bones, and sets the Ca:P ratio correctly.
● Linseed and pumpkin seed: small contributions of omega‑3 and omega‑6 fatty acids, plus gentle, fermentable fibre that can improve stool shape.
● Taurine, vitamins and minerals: provide a safety net so every meal matches recognised nutrient profiles even with natural variation in meat.
Many cats do very well with just the patties and water. Some guardians add a tiny amount of marine fish oil for EPA and DHA, especially if they want extra omega‑3 support beyond plant ALA. If you add anything, keep it modest and consistent.
Turkey, chicken or red meats: which suits your cat
Different meats bring different strengths. The table below helps you pick based on sensitivity, energy and taste.
|
Option |
Key Proteins |
Best For |
Texture & Energy |
Quick Notes |
|
Turkey & Chicken Patties |
Turkey, chicken meat and organs |
Cats with red meat intolerance, sensitive tummies, lean body goals |
Leaner profile, moderate calories |
Taurine on label, balanced Ca:P via ground bone |
|
Red Combo Patties |
Lamb, kangaroo, pork, beef with organs |
Cats that react to poultry, fussy eaters who like richer flavour |
Slightly higher calories, still balanced |
Rich in heme iron and zinc, still taurine‑supplemented |
You can keep both on hand and rotate each week, or stick to the one your cat thrives on. Either way, the formulas are complete.
Example day plans
Sometimes a simple schedule makes feeding easier, especially when households are juggling work and school runs.
● Kitten, 1.5 kg, healthy appetite:
○ Breakfast: 35 g
○ Lunch: 35 g
○ Dinner: 35 g
○ Supper: 20 g
○ Total: about 125 g per day, review weekly as weight climbs
● Adult, 4 kg, indoor and desexed:
○ Breakfast: 45 g
○ Dinner: 45 g
○ Total: about 90 g per day, adjust by 10 to 15 g based on body condition
● Senior, 4 kg, prefers small meals:
○ Breakfast: 35 g
○ Mid‑afternoon: 25 g
○ Dinner: 35 g
○ Total: about 95 g per day, watch muscle tone and keep protein high
● Pregnant queen, 4 kg late gestation:
○ Breakfast: 50 g
○ Lunch: 40 g
○ Dinner: 50 g
○ Late snack: 30 g
○ Total: about 170 g per day, keep water bowls spotless and full
Hydration and bowl habits that help
Cats are efficient water conservers, but good hydration still matters, especially when protein is high.
● Offer multiple wide bowls away from the food station.
● Try a ceramic or stainless steel bowl to avoid plastic odours.
● Add a splash of warm water to raw meals if your cat enjoys softer textures.
● Keep a pet fountain running if your cat loves moving water.
Troubleshooting common situations
● Soft stools during transition: slow the changeover, add 2 to 3 extra days at the 50 percent stage, and keep batches consistent.
● Constipation after switching to a very bony DIY recipe: switch back to a complete patty with measured bone, and ensure fresh water is always on offer.
● Refusal to eat from the fridge: plate meals at room temperature. Warming the bowl with hot water underneath can help.
● Sudden weight gain: trim daily intake by 10 percent and recheck in 10 days. Avoid extra treats while adjusting.
● Hairballs still an issue: split daily food into more frequent smaller meals, brush daily, and consider a teaspoon of extra hydration per meal.
Ordering and storage notes for Sydney
Proudi Premium Raw patties require refrigeration. They are currently available for local delivery or pickup within Sydney. Keep a week’s supply in the fridge and the rest frozen, then rotate stock so older packs are used first.
Quick nutrient snapshot
Curious how the macros line up with a feline‑appropriate profile? Here is a compact view.
|
Nutrient Focus |
What Proudi Provides |
Why It Matters |
|
Protein high, carbs very low |
Protein around 12.6 to 13.9 percent as‑fed, carbs around 1.5 to 2.2 percent |
Cats rely on amino acids for energy and maintenance, and have little need for starch |
|
Balanced fats |
Fat around 10 to 12 percent as‑fed |
Supplies calories and essential fatty acids without upsetting digestion |
|
Calcium and phosphorus |
Ground bone plus calcium carbonate to set Ca:P near 1.2 to 1 |
Supports skeletal health and nerve function |
|
Taurine |
Listed on label, plus heart and dark muscle |
Protects heart function and night vision |
|
Vitamins and minerals |
Added premix covers A, D, E and B group |
Fills natural variation across meat cuts and seasons |
Feeding raw can be straightforward, safe and deeply satisfying for both you and your cat, especially when following feeding guidelines. Start with a complete patty, feed the right amount for your cat’s size and life stage, keep handling clean, and adjust calmly based on body condition.77 Paws is an authorised Australian distributor of Proudi raw pet food, helping Aussie pet families feed natural nutrition with confidence. If you’re in Sydney, local delivery or pickup makes it even easier to keep fresh food on hand.






